CACHEMIRE CERTIFIÉ HAUTE QUALITÉ | Origine Mongolie Intérieure · Fibre Grade A
The "merino vs cashmere — which is better?" debate assumes there's a single winner. There isn't. These are two fundamentally different fibres suited to different needs, and the answer depends entirely on how you plan to wear them.
We make garments from both — 100% Alxa cashmere and 100% Australian Merino wool, no blends in either — so we have no incentive to steer you toward one over the other. What we can offer is an honest, side-by-side comparison based on the actual properties of each fibre.
Cashmere comes from the undercoat of cashmere goats (Capra hircus). The finest grades — under 15.5 microns — come from goats in extreme cold climates, particularly the Alxa region of Inner Mongolia. Each goat yields only 100-200 grams of usable undercoat per year.
Merino wool comes from Merino sheep, a breed originally from Spain now primarily raised in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. Merino is defined by its fineness relative to other sheep's wool — superfine Merino measures under 18.5 microns, while standard wool can exceed 30 microns. Yield per sheep is significantly higher than cashmere yield per goat.
Cashmere wins on pure tactile softness, and the reason is physics. Fibre diameter is the primary determinant of how soft a textile feels against your skin. Finer fibres bend more easily when they contact skin, producing less prickle sensation.
| Property | Grade A Cashmere | Superfine Merino |
|---|---|---|
| Typical diameter | 14-15.5 microns | 15-18.5 microns |
| Feel against skin | Extremely soft, no prickle | Very soft, minimal prickle |
| Drape | Fluid, light | Slightly firmer, more structured |
At the finest end of the spectrum, the difference narrows considerably. A 16-micron Merino is remarkably soft. But a 14.5-micron Alxa cashmere is in a category of its own — it has a buttery, almost weightless quality that even the finest Merino doesn't replicate.
Cashmere is warmer per unit of weight. The fibre structure of cashmere includes a higher proportion of air pockets within each strand, which creates insulation. Industry sources commonly describe cashmere as providing several times the insulating capacity of sheep's wool by weight, though exact multiples vary depending on the specific fibres compared and testing methodology.
However, Merino has a broader temperature-regulation range. It manages moisture more actively — Merino fibres can absorb up to 30% of their weight in moisture before feeling damp, according to the Woolmark Company. This makes Merino better at keeping you comfortable during physical activity or fluctuating temperatures.
For static warmth (sitting, commuting, working indoors): cashmere.
For active temperature regulation (walking, travelling, layering for variable conditions): Merino.
Merino wins on durability and resilience. Merino fibres have a natural crimp and elasticity that allows them to stretch and return to shape repeatedly. This makes Merino more resistant to deformation from regular wear, stretching, and movement.
Cashmere fibres are finer and have less natural elasticity. They're more susceptible to pilling (especially lower grades with shorter staple length) and require more careful handling. However, high-grade cashmere with long staple fibres (34mm+) is significantly more durable than cheap, short-staple cashmere.
In practical terms: a Merino base layer can handle a washing machine on a wool cycle. A cashmere sweater should be hand-washed. Merino tolerates more mechanical stress.
[INTERNAL LINK: "How to Wash Cashmere at Home Without Ruining It"]
[INTERNAL LINK: "How to Wash Merino Wool at Home Without Shrinking It"]
Merino is lower-maintenance, full stop.
| Care Factor | Cashmere | Merino |
|---|---|---|
| Washing method | Hand-wash recommended | Hand-wash or machine wool cycle |
| Drying | Flat dry only | Flat dry recommended |
| Pilling tendency | Moderate to high (grade-dependent) | Low |
| Odour resistance | Good | Excellent |
| Wrinkle recovery | Good | Very good |
Merino's natural odour resistance is particularly notable. The fibre's surface structure inhibits bacterial growth, meaning you can wear a Merino garment multiple times between washes without it developing odour. Cashmere also resists odour well — better than synthetics — but not to the same degree as Merino.
Cashmere costs more, and the reason is yield. A cashmere goat produces 100-200 grams of fibre per year. A Merino sheep produces several kilograms. This scarcity differential drives the raw material price and, consequently, the finished garment price.
For comparable quality levels (fine-grade, 100% pure, well-constructed), expect to pay roughly two to four times more for cashmere than Merino. The exact ratio varies by brand and garment type.
[INTERNAL LINK: "Cashmere vs Merino Base Layer: Which Should You Wear?"]
Yes, and arguably that's the smartest approach. Merino works as a high-performance base layer and daily workhorse. Cashmere works as a top layer, a finishing piece, and a comfort investment for the moments where softness and lightweight warmth matter most.
This isn't a compromise — it's a system. The two fibres complement each other because their strengths don't overlap.
[INTERNAL LINK: "Cashmere Capsule Wardrobe: 6 Pieces That Work All Year"]
The question "merino vs cashmere, which is better?" has no universal answer. Cashmere is softer, warmer by weight, and more luxurious. Merino is more durable, easier to care for, and more versatile for active use. The right choice depends on how and when you'll wear it. At Vionisxy, we make both in 100% purity because we believe you shouldn't have to compromise on either fibre — you should just use each one where it performs best.
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Meta description: What is Grade A cashmere? Learn how cashmere grading works, what the micron numbers mean, and why Grade A fibre from Inner Mongolia justifies the price.
Brands throw around "Grade A cashmere" like it's a magic phrase that justifies any price tag. But most never explain what the grading system actually measures, who defines it, or why it matters to you as a buyer.
Understanding what Grade A cashmere is — and what it isn't — gives you a concrete way to evaluate whether a cashmere product is genuinely premium or just marketed as such. It comes down to two measurable properties: fibre diameter and staple length.
Cashmere is graded primarily by fibre diameter, measured in microns (one micron = one thousandth of a millimetre). The grading system used across the industry follows these thresholds:
| Grade | Fibre Diameter | Minimum Staple Length | Quality Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Grade A | Under 15.5 microns | 34mm+ | Premium — softest, most durable |
| Grade B | 15.5–19 microns | Variable | Mid-range — noticeably coarser |
| Grade C | 19+ microns | Variable | Lower — significantly coarser, pills faster |
Fibre diameter determines softness. The finer the fibre, the more it bends when it contacts your skin, and the softer it feels. Below about 18 microns, most people cannot detect any prickle at all. At 14-15 microns, the fabric feels almost weightless against skin.
Staple length determines durability. Longer fibres produce stronger yarn because each fibre has more surface area to grip adjacent fibres in the twisted yarn structure. Short-staple cashmere (under 30mm) produces weaker yarn that pills aggressively and loses shape faster.
Grade A cashmere requires both: fine diameter AND long staple. This combination is what makes it genuinely premium.
Here's the problem: "Grade A" is not a legally regulated term in most markets. A brand can label their product "Grade A cashmere" without independent verification. There is no cashmere police.
This is why the actual micron count matters more than the grade label. A brand that tells you their cashmere measures 14.5 microns and provides third-party lab testing (such as SGS certification) to verify that claim is giving you something concrete. A brand that says "Grade A" and nothing else is giving you marketing copy.
When evaluating cashmere products, ask these questions:
[INTERNAL LINK: "Real vs Fake Cashmere: 7 Ways to Tell the Difference"]
Geography is not marketing — it's biology. The Alxa region of Inner Mongolia has some of the most extreme continental weather on earth: winters regularly reaching -30°C, arid desert conditions, and sparse vegetation.
Cashmere goats in this environment develop exceptionally fine, dense undercoats as an evolutionary response to the cold. The fibre they produce consistently grades at the finest end of the spectrum — typically 14 to 15.5 microns. Goats in milder climates simply don't develop the same quality undercoat because they don't need to.
China produces approximately 70% of the world's raw cashmere, but the quality varies enormously by region within the country. Not all Chinese cashmere is Grade A. The Alxa desert region specifically is where the finest fibre concentrates.
[INTERNAL LINK: "Why Inner Mongolia Produces the World's Finest Cashmere Fibre"]
If you've only ever touched cheap cashmere from a fast-fashion retailer, you may have been underwhelmed. That's likely because you were handling Grade B or C fibre — or a cashmere blend — not Grade A.
The difference is immediately apparent to touch:
Grade A (under 15.5 microns): Feels buttery, almost liquid. No prickle whatsoever. Lightweight but noticeably warm. Drapes fluidly rather than holding rigid shape.
Grade B (15.5-19 microns): Soft but with slightly more body. You might detect a faint texture, though not prickle. Heavier hand feel. Less drape.
Grade C (19+ microns): Noticeably coarser. Some people detect a slight prickle, especially on sensitive skin like the neck. Stiffer drape. Pills more readily due to typically shorter staple length in this grade range.
The difference between Grade A and Grade C cashmere is comparable to the difference between fine silk and standard cotton. They're technically the same fibre family, but the experience of wearing them is fundamentally different.
Yes, and the reason is the staple length requirement. Grade A cashmere requires a minimum 34mm staple length. These longer fibres produce yarn with better structural integrity — each fibre wraps around its neighbours more completely, creating a tighter, stronger structure.
Short-staple fibres (common in Grade C cashmere) have more exposed fibre ends at the yarn surface. These exposed ends are what work loose with friction and form pills. More exposed ends means more pilling, faster.
A Grade A cashmere sweater with proper care can last a decade or more. A Grade C sweater typically starts showing significant pilling and shape loss within one to three seasons.
[INTERNAL LINK: "Is Cashmere Worth It? A Brutally Honest Cost-Per-Wear Analysis"]
A checklist for evaluating any cashmere product claiming Grade A status:
Grade A cashmere isn't a vague quality descriptor — it's a measurable specification defined by fibre diameter (under 15.5 microns) and staple length (34mm minimum). These numbers determine how the cashmere feels, how long it lasts, and whether the price is justified. At VIONIS·XY our Alxa cashmere measures 14.5 microns and every batch is SGS-certified, because we believe the grade should be verified, not just claimed.
